How to Tell If a Skincare Product Expired: 5 Clues

In the US, cosmetics are not required to carry expiration dates at all. The open-jar symbol with a number such as "12M" is the PAO mark, which shows the number of months a product is considered fit for use after you first open it, and it belongs to the EU labeling system. Your most reliable signals are simpler: the FDA says to throw away cosmetics when the color or smell changes.

In this guide: - Reading the label: PAO symbols and durability dates - 5 signs a product is past its prime - Why storage changes the answer - Eye-area products: the strictest rule - A 3-step shelf check

Reading the label: PAO and durability dates

Start with what is printed. Under the EU framework, products that will last more than 30 months must show a "period after opening" time. It usually takes the form of a small open cream jar with a time in months inside or beside it, such as 12M. Products that will last less than 30 months show a "Best before the end of" date instead. Some products need neither label, such as aerosols, perfumes, and single-use packs.

In the US, the FDA states that no current law requires cosmetic manufacturers to print expiration dates on labels. You may still see the PAO symbol on products sold in the US, but it is not an FDA requirement. When you see no date at all, that is normal for US cosmetics, and it means the decision rests on condition rather than the calendar.

Marking	Meaning	What to do
Open-jar symbol with 12M	Fit for use for 12 months after first opening (EU PAO system)	Write your opening date on the label
"Best before the end of" date	Durability date for shorter-lived products	Use before that date
No date at all	Common on US cosmetics; no expiration date required	Watch for color, smell, and texture changes

The table is the whole labeling question in three rows. A PAO mark gives you a countdown from opening day, a durability date gives you a deadline, and no mark means you judge by condition. The Irish regulator HPRA notes that these periods are not random figures, because they are supported by safety evidence. Treat the printed value as the starting point and your own checks as the backup.

5 signs a product is past its prime

One: the color changed. Two: the smell changed. The FDA's rule is direct: throw away cosmetics if there are changes in color or smell. If you notice a problem, the FDA advises you to stop using the product, call your healthcare provider about any reaction, and report problems to the FDA.

Three: the texture changed. The FDA notes that temperature changes and exposure to sunlight and air can cause changes in color and texture. A product that looks or feels different from when you opened it is worth replacing.

Four: the PAO period has passed, or you cannot remember when you opened the product. The FDA says marking the container with the date you open it may help you keep track of its age. Without an opening date, the PAO symbol cannot help you.

Five: you added water or saliva to stretch it, especially mascara. The FDA says not to add saliva or water to mascara because you could add germs.

Why storage changes the answer

The FDA considers determining a product's shelf life to be part of the manufacturer's responsibility, and it notes that the length of time varies with the type of product, how it is used, and how it is stored. Temperature changes and exposure to sunlight and air can change color and texture. The FDA also says heat can make preservatives break down and cause bacteria and fungi to grow faster.

That is why the same cream can last differently in two homes. A jar kept in a hot, steamy spot ages faster than one kept cool and dry. The FDA also advises keeping containers clean and tightly closed and protecting them from temperature extremes.

Evidence box: what the official sources say

FDA, cosmetics labeling: "There are no regulations or requirements under current United States law that require cosmetic manufacturers to print expiration dates on the labels of cosmetic products."
FDA, using cosmetics safely: "Throw away cosmetics if there are changes in color or smell."
FDA, shelf life: "Manufacturers usually recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase."
Cosmetics Europe: "Products that will last more than 30 months must show a 'period after opening' time."
HPRA: "Minimum date of durability and PAO are not random figures."

Eye-area products: the strictest rule

Treat everything near the eyes as a separate, stricter category. Mascara has the clearest guideline: manufacturers usually recommend discarding it two to four months after purchase, and the FDA says to discard dried-up mascara rather than moisten it. The FDA also says not to share or swap eye cosmetics.

If you try a product at a store, the FDA suggests using single-use applicators, such as clean cotton swabs, because testers can carry a greater risk of contamination. If you get an eye infection, the FDA advises avoiding eye cosmetics until the area is healed and discarding the ones you were using. Check with a healthcare professional about any eye irritation.

Check your shelf in 3 steps

Gather every opened product and look for the open-jar PAO symbol. Write today's date on any jar where you cannot remember the opening date.
Look at and smell each one. Any change in color or smell means it goes in the bin, regardless of the date.
Check the purchase date on mascara and other eye products. If it is past the two to four months manufacturers usually recommend, replace it.

When in doubt about an eye product, replace it.

Before you restock

Note the PAO symbol on anything new, and write the opening date on the label the day you start it.
Keep new products away from heat and sunlight, and keep containers clean and tightly closed.
Ask for single-use applicators when sampling products near the eyes.
If you have a skin condition, are pregnant, or take medication, check with a healthcare professional before changing products.